Introduction
Whether you need a camera mount, Raspberry Pi case or a custom enclosure for a small electronics project, 3D printing promises cheap, customised parts. But cost alone doesn’t tell the whole story. This guide breaks down how different 3D printing approaches perform against price, with clear steps to pick the best route for UK makers, hobbyists and small businesses.
What affects cost and performance?
Three main factors determine the final trade-off: material and process, design complexity, and production volume. An FDM print using PLA is cheap but less durable than an SLA print using engineering resin. Complex geometries increase print time and post-processing. And once you need dozens or hundreds of units, injection moulding or an external contract manufacturer becomes more economical.
Quick cost drivers
- Printer and tooling: initial capital for an in-house printer.
- Material: filament, resin or sheet material costs per part.
- Print time and post-processing: hours of machine time and finishing work.
- Volume: per-unit cost drops with higher quantities.
Cost vs performance: short comparison
| Option | Typical cost per unit (UK) | Strength/Finish | Best use-case |
|---|---|---|---|
| FDM 3D print (PLA/ABS) | £1–£10 | Moderate strength, visible layer lines | Prototypes, one-offs, functional mounts |
| SLA 3D print (resin) | £5–£30 | High detail, brittle but smooth finish | Small enclosures, detailed panels |
| Off-the-shelf manufactured parts | £5–£50 | Consistent finish, higher durability | Standardised housings, rapid deployment |
Actionable steps to choose the right route
- Define requirements: list size, mechanical load, environmental exposure and aesthetics.
- Estimate volumes: one-off, small batch (2–50) or mass (50+).
- Choose material by requirement: PLA for easy prototypes, ASA or PETG for outdoor use, nylon or PC for strength.
- Decide in-house or service: if you need rapid iteration and have under 20 parts, print in-house; for higher detail or volume, use a specialist service.
- Test and iterate: print a scaled or simplified test piece to validate fit and strength before committing to a full run.
Pitfalls to avoid
- Underspecifying loads: many small mounts fail because designers assume plastic behaves like metal. Add safety factors and ribs.
- Neglecting tolerances: sliding fits and cable ports need allowances for print precision and post-processing.
- Choosing the wrong finish: sanding and solvent smoothing add time and cost—factor these in.
- Ignoring environmental factors: PLA degrades in heat; use ASA/PETG for outdoor or warmer indoor environments.
When to use a service or manufacturer
If you don’t want to buy and maintain a printer, or if parts need tight tolerances and professional finishes, online printing services and local UK machine shops save time and reduce waste. They also accept STL files for instant quotes, which helps with budgeting and affiliate-recommended material purchases.
Conclusion
3D printing is a powerful option for mounts and enclosures when you match the method to the requirement. Use FDM for low-cost functional prototypes, SLA for high-detail small parts and consider commercial manufacturing for larger runs or where durability and finish matter. If you want tested kit suggestions or a quote for printing and finishing, contact a reputable UK print service or explore recommended printers, filaments and finishing tools to get started.
FAQ
How much should I expect to spend on a good hobby 3D printer?
A reliable hobby FDM printer suitable for mounts typically costs £200–£500 upfront; budget an extra £20–£50 a year for maintenance and consumables depending on use.
Is PLA strong enough for camera mounts?
PLA can be acceptable for light-duty mounts, but for load-bearing or outdoor mounts choose PETG, ASA or nylon for better impact and heat resistance.
When is SLA better than FDM?
Choose SLA when you need fine surface detail or thin-walled enclosures; don’t use it where toughness and impact resistance are primary concerns unless you use engineering resins.
Can I get professional finishes on 3D printed parts?
Yes. Methods include sanding, filler primer, solvent smoothing for certain plastics, and painting. Services offer professional post-processing if you want a ready-to-use product.
What quantity makes injection moulding worthwhile?
Typically from a few hundred to thousands of units, depending on part complexity; mould tooling costs are high but per-unit prices drop dramatically at scale.