Intro: why 3D printed mounts and enclosures make sense
Whether you’re mounting a Raspberry Pi, making a camera mount or protecting a DIY sensor, 3D printed mounts and enclosures are low-cost, customisable and fast to iterate. This guide walks you through each stage — from measuring the hardware to producing a finished part — and points out the practical choices UK makers should consider when buying filament, a printer or professional print services.
Step-by-step: design to finished part
1. Plan and measure precisely
Start with the components that will sit inside the enclosure: PCBs, connectors, screws and cables. Measure widths, heights and clearances with calipers. Add 0.5–1.0 mm clearance for sliding fits and 0.2–0.5 mm for snug fits depending on material. Sketch a basic layout on paper or in a simple CAD tool.
2. Choose material and fastenings
Match material to use: PLA is easy and cheap for indoor low-heat devices; PETG for slightly higher temperature/resistance and better layer adhesion; ABS or ASA for heat and outdoor use. Decide whether you need screw bosses, snaps, or press-fit parts — these affect wall thickness and tolerances.
3. Model in CAD
Use Fusion 360, FreeCAD or Tinkercad for simple boxes. Design with wall thickness of at least 2–3 mm for strength, and add fillets to reduce stress. Create chamfers on openings for easier assembly and include access holes for cables and ventilation where necessary.
4. Prepare the print
Export the model as STL and slice with Cura, PrusaSlicer or other software. Recommended settings: 0.2 mm layer height, 2–3 top/bottom layers, 15–25% infill for enclosure shells, and 3–4 perimeters for strength. Add supports only where overhangs exceed ~50°.
5. Print, post-process and assemble
Use a brim or raft for parts prone to warping (ABS/PETG). After printing, clean up supports, sand mating faces lightly and test-fit components. For better finish, acetone vapour smoothing works for ABS; for PETG/PLA, primer and filler give a painted finish. Seal seams with silicone if the enclosure must be dust- or water-resistant.
Pitfalls to avoid
- Underestimating tolerances: test-fit small prototypes before committing to a full print.
- Wrong material choice: PLA can deform near radiators or inside warm enclosures.
- Poor screw boss design: ensure bosses are thick enough and include proper reinforcements or add metal threaded inserts.
- Ignoring cooling and ventilation: electronics need airflow to avoid overheating.
- Overusing supports: they add print time and post-processing—redesign to reduce them.
Quick material comparison
| Material | Strength/Temp | Ease of printing | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| PLA | Low–medium | Very easy | Indoor, prototypes |
| PETG | Medium, better heat resistance | Moderate | Functional parts, outdoor use |
| ABS/ASA | High, good heat/UV resistance | Harder (warping) | Enclosures near heat/outdoors |
Where to buy or commission prints (UK-focused)
For hobbyists, buy quality filament from established UK suppliers to avoid moisture and inconsistent diameters. If you need high-quality finishes or large batches, commission local print shops or online services that accept STL uploads — many offer material choices and post-processing. If you’d like, I can recommend vetted UK suppliers and print services or quote for design and production work via the contact form on this site.
Conclusion
Designing and producing reliable 3D printed mounts and enclosures is a repeatable process: measure accurately, choose the right material, design with tolerances in mind, and iterate with test prints. With the right settings and post-processing your prints will look and perform professionally. If you want to skip the learning curve, consider ordering from a trusted UK print service or using a professional design/print package — affiliate links and local partners on this site make it quick to compare prices.
FAQ
How thick should enclosure walls be?
Aim for 2–3 mm for general use. Increase to 4 mm for load-bearing mounting points or where screws are used without inserts.
Do I need threaded inserts?
For repeated assembly or to prevent plastic stripping, heat-set or screw-in metal inserts are recommended, especially in softer plastics like PLA.
Which filament works best for outdoor use?
ASA has the best UV resistance; PETG also performs well. Avoid plain PLA outdoors unless sheltered.
Can I glue printed parts?
Yes. Use cyanoacrylate (superglue) for small joins, epoxy for structural bonds, and silicone for seals.
What if my part warps during printing?
Try a heated bed, enclosure, brim/raft, slower cooling, and lower print speed. Material-specific measures (e.g. ABS enclosure) help too.
Need help with design or production?
If you prefer a turnkey option, I offer design and print services and can recommend reliable UK print shops — contact details are on my services page.